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brighton 2

Its a Jolly Merry-go-round

September 19, 2011 by Le Fist

The circus has rolled in once more, along with it the usual cast of characters – ringmaster, clown and magicians. As with any circus there is always The Good, The Bad and the Damned. OK, I made the last one up but “ugly” is a subjective thing. One man’s Beautiful is another’s Rodarte, ouch! Anyway, I’ve got some ideas for posts on fashion week. One of them will be what I call The Barbie Syndrome — female designers objectifying themselves. […]

Categories: Uncategorized • Tags: fashion critique

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CELINE colours

Celine: Little Girl Pink

March 7, 2011 by Le Fist

The show season’s nearly over, not without a whiff of scandal, drunken proclamations and talk of ominous place-shiftings at a high level… The clothes almost seem like an afterthought. Anyway, zees eez not zee playhss for shameless gossip. Its been an odd season. I’m not sure how I feel about most of the shows. A lot of them inspired a feeling of blahhhh, more than anything else. I think to myself, how would that look all in black? Or will the world […]

Categories: Uncategorized • Tags: celine, colour studies, fashion critique, pink

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Screen shot 2011-01-21 at 09.19.45

Swoon

January 21, 2011 by Le Fist

Navy, Sky, Grey, Buttermilk, Fawn, Cranberry Black + White (A lot of white) = Fashion HEADRUSH Admittedly, its been a bit Sleepsville ’round these parts as of late. No more excuses about being too busy. I’ve just been plain LAZY. Paris kind of does that to you, I guess. It’s so easy to go horizontal. Stroll over to the Tabac, pick up my daily supply of Nicotine from my pusher-friend at Le Progres on Rue de Bretagne; maybe grab a […]

Categories: Uncategorized • Tags: dries van noten, fashion critique, menswear

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92910Whtcoat_0022Web

Girls will be Girls

October 11, 2010 by Le Fist

Some post-fashion week musings_ Valentino Lace, flowers, rosettes, waft-y outbursts of tulle, crin, chiffon clouds… Somehow, and uncharacteristically so perhaps, I’m drawn towards prettiness. After the 90s-redux overload with its spin on severe intelligence pretty seems well, pretty avant-guard. YSL Take a closer at this nouveau coquette, presented to us mainly/partly by Peter Copping at Nina Ricci, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccoli at Valentino, Marco Zanini at Rochas, Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen, Stefano Pilati at YSL and […]

Categories: Uncategorized • Tags: Alexander McQueen, fashion critique, rochas, valentino

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vuitton_det_rtw_oct_2010_006_132914253060

Gold Digger: MURDER ON THE ORIENT EXPRESS/ Murder on the dancefloor

October 8, 2010 by Le Fist

Gaudy, bawdy awful, I must say_ I went to my first Indian, or as we Brits say, Asian, wedding a couple of weeks ago – I’ve been to a lot of weddings this year – and I was stunned by the assualt of colour, sparkle and artificial flowers. The air was heady with the scent of jasmine and curry, a potent sensory cocktail. It was quite good, if a tad bit sedate. It was a Muslim wedding so no booze. […]

Categories: opium nights at the bazaar • Tags: fashion critique, louis vuitton, marc jacobs

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rivages

MODERN MUSE 5: Renée PERLE

September 27, 2010 by Le Fist

There’s something about Renée… For me, PRADA really delivered this season. I thought it was an extremely strong show. Precise, uncompromising and decidedly MODERN – a word bandied about so much these days. In a season of blindingly bright hues the PRADA electric blues, oranges and greens seemed the most potent and daring. The thing I like about PRADA is you really get a sense of the woman, the narrative. The total package. Miuccia Prada would most probably have been […]

Categories: Uncategorized • Tags: fashion, fashion critique, J H Lartigue, modern muse, photography, prada, Renee Perle

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Tom Ford

Splitting Image: CHANEL vs TOM

April 22, 2010 by Le Fist

Once again, I’m drawn toward a Chanel ad campaign. It’s interesting to see how brands translate their catwalk message in 2D. Some show no product, some place emphasis on what sold the best, others on what reinforces their brand image the most. In all cases they strive to tell a story that will convince Joe Public to part with cash. However, in some cases an emphasis needs to be placed on con. (Both French and English meanings.) What I like […]

Categories: Uncategorized • Tags: advertising campaigns, chanel, fashion critique, tom ford

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Scan 1

Standing still whilst MOVING: Editorial Paralysis

April 21, 2010 by Le Fist

As I flicked through the April issue of American Vogue – a mercifully thin, advertising-light edition – I noticed that every one of the three or so editorials were in the same style despite being the creative fruits borne from different creative minds. Grace C, Edward E, David S and so forth. All major players yet how come this similarity and reduction of their efforts to Dynamism? “Dynamic”. I loathe that word. Especially when used in the context of fashion […]

Categories: Uncategorized • Tags: AMERICAN VOGUE, editorial, fashion critique

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kawakubo

First Love: Rei Kawakubo, A Retrospective of Sorts…

March 21, 2010 by Le Fist

I desperately want this _ Rei Kawakubo and Comme des Garçons: Deyan Sudjic 1990 I first came across this in the library during my first year at university. It seems strange now, and it wasn’t even that long ago, to imagine trawling through dusty books and Dewey codes. Google is incredibly useful but nothing can beat the excitement of happening on a great book after hours of fruitless searching in dank, sneeze-inducing aisles – its like its been sat there, […]

Categories: Uncategorized • Tags: comme des garcons, fashion critique, rei kawakubo

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zee lazy blogger…

March 7, 2010 by Le Fist

oops, been gone a wee while. soz, darlings. back soon, mama’s got to bring home the bacon first. LFN PS Miss Mower’s dig at the “Twiterati” in her Comme des Garcons review on style.com is très drôle. Now, now, claws back in, girls…

Categories: Uncategorized • Tags: fashion critique, iPhones at dawn

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mediacrities 1

Tweet me, baby, one more time: The Digital Cacophony

March 1, 2010 by Le Fist

The most interesting developments this show season happened not on the catwalks. Yes, Miuccia Prada made us pause for thought with her sizeist polemic and Raf Simmons’ Jil Sander collection left some confused about what sort of working women wore tailored romper suits. But all that’s just a mere distraction from the matter at hand – Fashion Broadcasting. Munch: The Scream Information overload or a democratic putting across of one’s opinion? This is the season where live streaming went a […]

Categories: Uncategorized • Tags: fashion critique

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KD 2

The Chalayan Construct, The Kawakubo Curse

February 23, 2010 by Le Fist

There seem to be two designers that have a strong influence over the collections thus far – Hussein Chalayan from his early work and Rei Kawakubo. The Chalayan Construct_ _was evident in the styling and presentation of  the Marios Schwab collection for Halston – the hats may link back to the start of Halston’s career as a milliner but they remind me more of Chalayan’s headpieces. As do the almost medical-looking boots and the set design of the presentation. Jarring […]

Categories: fashion etymology • Tags: comme des garcons, fashion critique, halston, hussein chalayan, marios schwab, meadham kirchoff, Narciso Rodriguez, rodarte

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Louise Wilson

Fussy Finished: Generation 2010 Have Spoken

February 22, 2010 by Le Fist

A v.long post, I must warn. But this needs to be said_ That Louise Wilson gets about a bit, doesn’t she? She keeps cropping up in Sunday supplements and magazine articles, pushing her brand of tuition and guidance every which way. Straight-talking Louise knows a thing or two. Louise knows best and don’t we know it! The Harder They Come: Louise Wilson I’ve sort of fallen out of love with fashion a bit. Fashion, to me, has become unfashionable. The […]

Categories: love love love • Tags: architecture, central saint martins, fashion, fashion critique, louise wilson, stanton williams

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VB

More from the Lazy Blogger: Brand Beckham, etc.

February 17, 2010 by Le Fist

Queen Vic, on the cover of a magazinnnne Soz. I’m away from my desk at the moment, so to speak. Some thoughts on New York fashion week_ Victoria Beckham: Top marks. Classy. Really loving me a bit of VB. Really great clothes. Very smart lady. Loved the fact that she let the buyers in on what she’d wearing to the Oscars. I wonder what the best-selling dress will be? Marc Jacobs: Been gagging for Mr Jacobs to go back to […]

Categories: Uncategorized • Tags: fashion critique

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Mad Max

Modern Muse 3: Mel Gibson, Mad Max

January 29, 2010 by Le Fist

The menswear season has come and gone, and a good one it was. Another show I really liked, apart from Louis Vuitton and Rick Owens, was Lanvin. I liked how they’d shifted focus with a more aggressive slant on the Elbaz/Ossedrijver take on deconstruciton. You can only take pretty so far, especially when rivals are catching up. I loved the Aryan/ albino meets Mad Max spirit that was omnipresent in the show. A menacing gang of left bank warriors. The […]

Categories: men only • Tags: fashion critique, lanvin, menswear, muse

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Armani Privé

The Halston Effect: Paris Couture, Spring-Summer 2010

January 27, 2010 by Le Fist

This is going to be a long post I must warn you. I’ll be sharing some thoughts on the three protagonist houses showing  Haute Couture  in Paris: Givenchy, Giorgio Armani and Chanel. A 70′s redux runs through those shows like the finest silk thread and I can see the shadow of one man cast over all three collections – Halston_ Give Me More// Givenchy par Riccardo Tisci Reading Suzy Menkes’ and Sarah Mower’s reviews of  Tisci’s efforts he pretty much […]

Categories: couture ss2010, love love love, Uncategorized • Tags: armani prive, chanel, couture fashion week, fashion critique, givenchy, halston

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Le Smoking

Comme des Femmes: The trouble with men in skirts

January 23, 2010 by Le Fist

Men Behaving Girly: Comme des garcons, Givenchy, Rick Owens [www.wwd.com] Every so often, the menswear shows throw up a multitude of “man skirts”. Nothing new in that. Jean Paul Gaultier’s been hard at it for decades, never mind the Scots with their tartan kilts – a national costume not a quotidian option, I might add. The Japanese invasion in the 80s brought a more funereal take in Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo’s heavy, felted dirndls. Hedi Slimane tried again at […]

Categories: boys boys boys, fashion week • Tags: fashion critique, meswear, skirts

3
Zach Condon 1

Modern Muse 1: Zach Condon// Beirut

January 18, 2010 by Le Fist

Mad About the Boy Zach Condon has a band called Beirut. You could quite call Zach a nerd and I’m sure Zach was called all sorts of things prophylactic in high school due to his surname. But we wont go there. Zach’s music is very good. Sort of Eastern Europe Slovenian folk pop. Quite tender. Sometimes tinged with melancholy. Zach plays amongst other things, the ukelele, accordion, glockenspiel, and mandolin but perhaps not the fiddle. I’m sure that he could […]

Categories: boys boys boys, muses, Uncategorized • Tags: Beirut, fashion critique, muse

1
takes to to tango

Bronze Ambition: The Usual Suspects contd.

October 6, 2009 by Le Fist

It takes two to tan-go Just had a thought. Are we all being taken for a ride, pawns in a game of fashion skullduggery? Perhaps the idea is to focus attention on the house of Ungaro again (✔), ditch La Li-lo pronto pronto and get in someone proper to do the job. Sounds implausible but there has to be a reason. Wonder who Keyser Söze will turn out to be…Hmmph.

Categories: 101 Ambre Solaires, A Lady and Her Tramp, fake, lindsey lohan, ungaro • Tags: fashion, fashion critique, lindsey lohan

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The Usual Suspects

The Usual Suspects: Changing Phases of The House of Ungaro

October 5, 2009 by Le Fist

It was destined to be a disaster from the start. It was like the Cassandra Crossing all over again. One train. One wobbly bridge. One colossal bottle of fake tan. One liberal squirt on the tracks. A no-brainer, really. Which begs the question: who was the brains behind this? Who was the Keyser Söze  in this caper? Mounir Moufarrige, C.E.O. of Emanuel Ungaro? Are there external forces at play? Forces from beyond the boundaries of logic, taste and good old […]

Categories: comebacks, duh, fashion week, lindsey lohan, ungaro • Tags: fashion, fashion critique, lindsey lohan

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