Its been a year already. The Willow Shoreditch, an unbelievably beautiful shop in Hoxton, London, owned by one of  my closest friends, is a year old today. What I love the most is the attention to detail in everything he does. Nothing is over-worked and everything comes beautifully packaged. Apart from flowers, The Willow does great salad boxes feshly prepped each morning, super-tasty cakes and seriously good coffee. And let’s not forget the one off objects, unusual vases and special collaborations with graphic designers, artists and photographers. Definitely worth checking out.

92 HOXTON STREET, LONDON

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Forgot about this one. I took it in a nightclub/ theatre in the Pigalle. It was at a BBB [Black, Blanc, Beur] party.  Can’t remember the actual name of the club. Anyway, BBB keeps changing location every week, Its held now at a club off the Champs-Élysées.

Anyhow, had a crazy Vodka-infused night there a few weekends ago. Verdict on new location: Nah. Or maybe I’m just getting too old for this sort of thing.

 

Hmmmph, I thought blogs were meant to be of the moment? Its more like “off minute” round these parts. Yes, the Kertesz show that I was banging on about earlier. Months earlier. That I saw Months Earlier. Twice. That I was going to blog about. Well like a sourdough “Mother” its been bubbling away at the back of the fridge that is my brain. Never too late. Is the show still running? If you saw it, well done. If you didn’t, tough titty!


Corner of Leger’s studio, Paris,1927

 

I first came across the work of Kertesz in the library during my first year as a BA fashion student. It was a small book on his distortion photographs. They blew me mind away. Sort of creepy-intriguing — women in classic poses that had been fucked about with so much that they looked like alien silk worms. This was back in the 1920s so a lot of circus mirrors and concave reflective surfaces were utilised. No Photoshop here.

My Brother Jeno…, Hungary, 1917

Distortion 88, 1933

Kertesz is largely regarded as the father of photo-journalism and his career spans over six decades, from the turn of the 19th century to the 1980s, prolific till the end. He is also arguably, the first truly modern photographer. I really like the way he saw the world as place inhabited by shadows, reflections and bird’s eye perspectives. He was born Hungary, haha, lived in Paris during the 20′s and later relocated to New York during the 2nd World War as he was a Jew. His back catalogue is immense. Strike that, MAMMOTH. I dream of the day I’ll own one of his prints but seeing them en masse at the Jeu de Paume on a crystal clear autumn’s day last year was heavenly.

Rouen, 1929

 

 

I particularly love this photograph of the artist Alexander Calder, shot in Paris, 1929. He was a cool dude, Andre. Hung out with the Intelligenstia and artists of the day, photographing them and their studios and homes. Mr. Calder just looks so bloody sexy in this pic, so broody. And what a Tache that rests above those lovely lips!

Ropes, 1928

 

 

ARCHITECTURE | INFRASTRUCTURE | PEOPLE

Chimneys, Paris C, 1927

 

 

Rainy day, Tokyo, September 14, 1968

 

 

Paris 1963

 

 

Paris 2010

BEFORE + AFTER.

Tracing Footsteps.  I was walking along the Seine one day and walked across the Pont Neuf onto the little island that sits in the middle of the river. I was with a friend and he wanted to show me Paris from a different perspective. As we walked back up the steps onto the Place du Pont Neuf I noticed that this was the same setting for the Kertesz photograph above. Coincidentally we’d just been to see the show. Creepy, perhaps.

 

PARTING GLANCES | Peg Leg

Clayton “Peg-Leg” Bates, Paris, 1929

This image of Clayton “Peg -Leg” Bates, the famous black tap dancer who lost a leg at the age of twelve is perhaps one of my favourite photographs by Kertesz. I just love the tonality, compostition and the erotic tension the wooden leg gives the image. I wonder if Robert Mappelthorpe was inspired by this image when he created Man In Polyester suit? The idea of sex is comically more obvious here but there are so many similarities: 2 black men, 3 piece suits and both images cropped above torso. And is it just me or do the hands not play a more significant role than phallus or faux foot? I find it quite funny how Clayton Bates has his hands crossed over his crotch and Polyester Suit man doesn’t, leaving that infamous Trouser Elephant for the whole world to see.


Man In Polyester Suit 1980

Navy, Sky, Grey, Buttermilk, Fawn, Cranberry

Black + White (A lot of white) = Fashion HEADRUSH

Admittedly, its been a bit Sleepsville ’round these parts as of late. No more excuses about being too busy. I’ve just been plain LAZY. Paris kind of does that to you, I guess. It’s so easy to go horizontal. Stroll over to the Tabac, pick up my daily supply of Nicotine from my pusher-friend at Le Progres on Rue de Bretagne; maybe grab a coffee there as well, or venture a bit further but not much, to Rose Bakery; pop in to Nicolas and see my other pusher-friend for the day’s supply of Prosecco – that’s booze and fags sorted then, ‘innit?; pop in to me local Pressing to have a little chat with the dolly birds in there and see what item of clothing they’ve lost this week — last week was the Burberry cardi with the fancy shoulders that a friend got me from the Hackney outlet – Bitches, I loved me that bad boy… You get the picture. It’s like St Mary Mead in Le Marais, sometimes…

Anyway, back to the reason why I was jolted out of my Slumber State. The new Dries Van Noten menswear show.Yummmy. It was like a sartorial cattle prod that woke this Sleeping Blogger from her coma. A beautifully turned out kiss that traipsed that line between regalia and “utilitaria” so expertly. What’s there not to love? The colour palette? Greys, blues, whites, a touch of camel,  a bit of black, some salt and pepper knits. Bang up me Back Alley. Or perhaps the shapes? Er, hello? Those pants looked positively roomy – if you minus the cool zippy jodhpur legging thingies – not as scary as they sound but need the legs of street urchin to pull those off. And the coats? Amazing. Just lovely, perfect tailoring. Perhaps the best argument for the ’80s Wall Street banker shoulders that have been cropping up everywhere – just plain wrong at Prada, eulogise all you like about Miuccia’s clever subversion. Nobody wants to wear a eulogy at the end of the day.

Great inspiration. David Bowie, Thin White Duke period. Richard Nicoll was onto that with his women’s summer show but the results here are way more successful. Anyway, thats a 329 word count so far. Not a bad start for someone who has just been brought back to life. Cheers, Dries!

Photos: Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com

from Style.com

Ooooops!


Zee Lazeee Blogger’s done it again. Still alive. Will be back shortly. Just need to get tomorrow’s drama at the Gare du Nord over with. Eurostar’s reassured me that their service will be quasi normal. Hmmmph, I’ll believe it when I see it.  History Repeating and all that. Will he stay or will he go? Bahhhh.

Something to chase those wintry blues away. A take on pressed flowers. Just hopped off the Eurostar. As freezing here as it was in London. I seriously recommend Uniqlo’s HEAT TECH thermals to ward off the cold and keep your delicate bits nice and toasty. In fact they work so well  that I’m seriously considering doubling them up and doing away with trousers all together. Now I really understand why girls are so attached to leggings. You feel kind of free but somehow held together.

Hmmph, food for thought…

Orlando Bloom as cover boy. As if we needed convincing? We’re sold, Mr Uniqlo, you clever man.

 

VISIT:

www.UNIQLO.com

 

Henri IV, Place du Pont Neuf

Took this the other day whilst crossing the Seine. Rather liked the idea of a gallant mid-canter against the evening rush hour traffic. One for the Great Archive of Random Photographs then.

A plus tard.

 

 

 

1.

Don’t ask.

Don’t ask why I was in one of those Afro Hair and Beauty shops that are scattered on Dalston Highstreet.  Don’t ask why I was looking at a selection of dodgy synthetic wigs. And photographing them. Some secrets need to remain secret. To the grave. Or to a pub on Curtain Road dressed up as Janet Jackson circa Rhythm Nation Tour. And yes those wigs weren’t for me. Mine was some how more befitting. It’s Janet, Miss Jackson if you’re nasty. I’ll drink to that.

 

 

2.

 


La Jeune Fille: 1978, French Edition, Laffont, France

I popped into Ofr. the other day. Its a bookshop cum gallery on rue Dupetit Thours [metro: arts e metiers/ temple] that I’ve mentioned before. Considering its only round the corner I hadn’t been there for a while. Perhaps out of fear — I never leave there empty-handed. NEVER.

Anyway, I browsed the shelves for about 30 minutes. There wasn’t much that interested me this time, strangely.  I’d spotted the new Marc Jacobs/Juergen Teller book in the window post-dinner a few nights ago so I’d been wanting to check it out. It’s OK. Quite hefty. I don’t know. I didn’t feel that familiar pull towards it. I’m more a Wolfgang Tillmans kind of guy, even though you can’t really compare the two, even though its perfectly OK to like both.

Anyway, I digress. David Hamilton. I knew about his work but it was the first time I’d come across his books in a shop — I think. I believe that books find you, not the other way around. There it was, high up on a shelf at the back of the shop. La Jeune Fille/ The Young Girl. First edition. In pretty good nick. I reached up, pulled it down, flicked through and yes, that familiar pull… I HAD to have it.

Hamilton wasn’t fond of working with professional models. And you really understand why. I like the way he captures that fleeting moment of girls on the cusp, oh, what the hell, precipice of change. How wordy does that sound! He is no stranger to controversy with the predictable, unimaginative tag of child pornography being thrown at him more than a few times. There is nothing even slightly “dirty” about his pictures. Technically they are brilliant. There is a gentleness to the light that caresses his subjects. And they are incredibly beautiful images. I find them very calm and quiet. You, the observer, is invited to just simply watch. The subject’s gaze is either direct and inviting or blissfully unaware >> IN HER SOLITUDE.  The tone of the pictures is sweet and innocent rather than provocative and sexual. They seem more sensual and celebratory as opposed to exploitative.

In a way they are quite painterly. Their stillness and muted tones make me think of a Vermeer or Hammershoi, dipped in sepia. I also like the focus on fabric and hair, giving the images a textural couterpoint, the way the aforementioned artists captured the lush heaviness of a silk duchesse, for instance.

A timely purchase, perhaps, as the controversial Larry Clark exhibition continues to pull in the crowds. The two couldn’t be more poles apart but for the naysayers taboo is taboo, I guess. Let it rest, guys.

 


visit: Ofr. system

 

 

2.

A work in progress.


 

 

1.

A mental nap from work. Messing about. Kind of like her.

 

 

 

 

Some photographs I took back in the summer. I liked the shadows cast on the stairs. The sort of zig zag. And the intense red of the door.

RED.

One of my favourite colours. Strong, intense and bloody.

I guess its an ode to Kertesz, the great photographer, on whom I shall do a post shortly. Been meaning to do that for ages.

As you’ve noticed tweaked things a bit. New background colour. Deep, slate GREY. Another of my favourites. I like the way it makes the images pop a bit more. Let’s see how long this lasts. Will probably get bored of it before long!

 

Ah, well. A complete change of tactic. From abject seediness to dewy-eyed poignancy in one quick swipe of the bluetooth keyboard_



WWW.PICTURESOFMYMOTHER.COM

It does what it says on the tin. Readers submit a picture of their mother along with a few lines to accompany the shot.

Its a simple and elegant concept that somehow navigates the schmaltz to produce something quietly, powerfully beautiful.




all images taken from www.picturesofmymother.com

Not that this matters but I might as well finish off the saga_

Vanity 6 was a short-lived affair. Sordid tales of sex and egos resulted in lead singer, Vanity [real name Denise Matthews] leaving the group to pursue a — you guessed it — short-lived solo career. The hits failed to materialise and poor Denise became a born again Christian — I’m not making this up. Fair Denise was replaced by Patricia Kotero – her evil nemesis who went by the stage name Apollonia.

Thus,

Apollonia 6 was born with the subtly titled debut album, Sex Shooter. Once again success eluded the girl group and they disbanded in the mid 80s. You can’t flog a dead horse or,

to paraphrase ” D”‘s, my Parisian girlfriend’s malapropism:

“You can’t F*ck

a dead horse.”

I like her version much better. I guess you could but I’m sure that its an illegal act and, at the very least, not very pleasant. Apollonia was last seen in 1984, scouring the streets of Brooklyn for her skirt…

Actually, I lie. She did a 10 week stint on Falcon Crest, that other 80s gem, appearing as her fully-clothed self.


You better work!


I love it. Just when you thought that there could be no more 80s bands left to discover Sister Fate throws one your way.

I won’t go into details as to how I came across this little gem.

All I’ll say is that The Almighty Prince discovered them.

They only had one album. Bless ‘em.

The eponymous Vanity 6.

Love, love, love!

Love the Logo.

These girls were on it. They OWNED it before Tyra Banksese was invented. They could have actually given birth to Lady T.

These girls were doing the Pussy Cat dolls when the dolls were still in diapers or not even born yet.

Well maybe not in the case of

Nicole Scherzinger.

Lord only knows how old that pussy is…

Anyway my top tracks must be Make Up, Nasty Girl and Wet Dream.

Go get it. Its so bad its goooood…

See also The Slits, Marine Girls [You can hear Tracey Thorne before she became part of Everything But The Girl]


1. Le Tango, Rue Maire

75003

Edith Piaf used to sing there. Now a Tea Dance/ Cabaret/ Trash Pop Night is held there every Saturday.

Out with the guys last weekend. Lots of odd couples going for it like their lives depended on it.

Good to see. They shoot horses, don’t they?

“G” could hardly contain himself when the Mariah Carey-esque tranny came out, nose shaded in like Beyonce to slim it down, help it stand out. Great fun!


2. Jeu de Paume, Place Concorde

Met up with “B” to go see the Kertesz retrospective. Beautifully sunny day. This city’s so incredibly beautiful.You find yourself catching your breath sometimes.

Looking over the square, with the Jeu de Paume behind me, I loved how the Luxor Obelisk echoed the Tour Eiffel in the distance. There is a precision to the vista of trees outside the museum, a bit like the ones at the Palais Royal. Really like the J de P as a space. It feels a little informal, approachable. The exhibition is HUGE. Definitely going to see it again. Too much to take in one go.

 

3. On the way to Prada

Stood on the platform at Bonne Nouvelle, waiting for train to Alma – Marceau. The grid lighting overhead reminds me a bit of a movie set. I like the contrast between the industrial design against the white tiles and ornate frames on the posters.

A few smokes at a cafe off Avenue Montaigne overlooking the Tour Eiffel with “N”.

Prada is heaving. A woman that looks like/ might be Shala Monroque is trying on shoes too along with “N”. The winter collection looks great. They know their customer well here at Prada… Clothes that work for monied professionals that want a play on classics without being dull.

Loads of Americans with loads o’ CASHOLA in their pockets swing great big white carrier bags out the shop into the rain.

 

4. On the Terrace at

PRINTEMPS

Sat with “N” on the rooftop terrace. Its gorgeous up here. The whole of Paris spread out in front of you. The shoes didn’t quite fit at Prada.

We have Ceaser salads out of plastic tubs. Tres chic. Its cold and overcast. But at least its stopped raining.

Later we head off to Uniqlo to check out the new +J Jil Sander collection. There’s a massive queue outside. Maybe not. Maybe I’ll wait till London. Not that desperate.


Lady Sings_


Piano Necktie.

Irony.

We like a bit of irony.

A funny name but don’t be fooled. From the exquisite monochromatic box with its natty pull out drawer, the lush black tissue paper that unfolds with a satisfying “crchhh”, the grosgrain ribbon that binds together the beautiful printed Tee, Piano Necktie is anything but naff.

This is Serious Tee-Shirt Business with the air of a Collector’s Item about it. Esoteric, refined graphics. Super soft cotton. Wear it till it falls apart.

And then wear it some more.

Go figure_

The Billie Holiday


VISIT:

WWW.PIANONECKTIE.COM

 


Bad girl_

I’ve had these for years.

I  can’t remember whether I bought them at San Donato market in Milan or at Port de Vanves in Paris. Anyway, I’ve always found this Little Miss intriguing.

To be honest, she kind of

Scares me!

I saw the Kertesz show yesterday at the Jeu de Paume but more on that later. It reminded me of my archive of vintage photography. I sort of stopped buying them a while back but I think I’ll start again.

The thing with vintage photography is that it leaves you wondering what happened to the subjects, what sort of lives they led, how long they lived, and so on.

Its a

lost art.

Most of us store pictures on our computers and mobile phones and print them out less and less.

I wonder what sort of heritage we’re leaving for the future?

There is something special about this sort of quotidian photography. Its very mundaneness makes it arguably a more honest record of the passing of time than professional photography.

Its spontaneous, tangible, honest

and tells it exactly like it was.

How we were_



Some images that inspired the dress in the following post from That Great Archive of Random Photos that inhabits my iMac_

 

Images by LeFistNoir

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