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Monthly Archives: January 2010

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Turkish Delights: Behind the scenes at a factory

January 29, 2010 by Le Fist

Through a glass darkly… I thought I’d post some pics I took last year at the factory of one of my clients. I’d never been to Turkey before then and I loved it. I was surprised by how incredibly cosmopolitan it was and also by how liberal it felt. I’ll be doing some posts about the process of fashion, following from the earlier mannequin post. The shows seem o take precedent above all things and there is so much more […]

Categories: Uncategorized, workin' day and night • Tags: colour studies, fashion, photography

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super-structure 2

Super-Structure

January 29, 2010 by Le Fist

Let’s start from the very beginning, a very good place to start_ So sings Julie Andrews in The Sound of Music. I thought it would be a great way to mark the end of couture fashion week by paying homage to the humble dressmaker’s mannequin, that unsung hero/ heroine of Haute Couture and fashion, really. Where would we be without our Stockmans and Kenneth & Lindsells? After me, doh, re, mi… Or, more appropriately,  pin, drape, tack…  Sew, a needle […]

Categories: Uncategorized • Tags: couture fashion week, fashion

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Mad Max

Modern Muse 3: Mel Gibson, Mad Max

January 29, 2010 by Le Fist

The menswear season has come and gone, and a good one it was. Another show I really liked, apart from Louis Vuitton and Rick Owens, was Lanvin. I liked how they’d shifted focus with a more aggressive slant on the Elbaz/Ossedrijver take on deconstruciton. You can only take pretty so far, especially when rivals are catching up. I loved the Aryan/ albino meets Mad Max spirit that was omnipresent in the show. A menacing gang of left bank warriors. The […]

Categories: men only • Tags: fashion critique, lanvin, menswear, muse

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Armani Privé

The Halston Effect: Paris Couture, Spring-Summer 2010

January 27, 2010 by Le Fist

This is going to be a long post I must warn you. I’ll be sharing some thoughts on the three protagonist houses showing  Haute Couture  in Paris: Givenchy, Giorgio Armani and Chanel. A 70′s redux runs through those shows like the finest silk thread and I can see the shadow of one man cast over all three collections – Halston_ Give Me More// Givenchy par Riccardo Tisci Reading Suzy Menkes’ and Sarah Mower’s reviews of  Tisci’s efforts he pretty much […]

Categories: couture ss2010, love love love, Uncategorized • Tags: armani prive, chanel, couture fashion week, fashion critique, givenchy, halston

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White Girl

Lady In White// hello, womenswear!

January 25, 2010 by Le Fist

More from the Obsessive Colour Coder’s desktop_ Let’s bid meswear farewell for now and look forward to coo-torrr and preht-ah-porrday. Skirts can now roam freely in their natural habitat. Lol. Soz, Raf & co.

Categories: colour coding, straight jacket groupie, tonal studies • Tags: colour studies, iMac, white

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Skirting the issue 2

Men In Skirts, contd.// Questions

January 24, 2010 by Le Fist

Two’s company, three’s a crowd. It’s getting pretty crowded in here… Jil Sander [www.wwd.com] Is this just a slight distraction from the matter at hand (the matter being real clothes for real men)? A ruse to be taken at face value, photographed a few times in I.D. magazine and then buried in that casket labelled “Implausible Ideas in Menswear”? Or is there more to this idée fixe than meets the eye? This season has produced some stellar clothes so I […]

Categories: men in skirts, men only • Tags: fas, mens fashion week

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johannes Itten

Modern Muse 2: László Moholy-Nagy + Johannes Itten

January 24, 2010 by Le Fist

László Moholy-Nagy The Boys From the Bauhaus_ Merging craft and technology with a singular style. Western Industrial versus Eastern Promise. The way to go. Team László Louis Vuitton, Neil Barrett, Bottega Veneta, Maison Martin Margiela, Raf Simmons -:+:- Johannes’ Witnesses YSL, Givenchy, Rick Owens, Jil Sander, Christian Dior, Raf Simmons (again) Johannes Itten Images: bauhaus archiv, magdalena droste, taschen, 1998

Categories: boys boys boys, muses, Uncategorized • Tags: Bauhaus, Johannes Itten, László Moholy-Nagy, mens fashion week, muse

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bauhaus 1

Bauhaus Revolution!

January 23, 2010 by Le Fist

Marcel Bruer: Wood-slat chair, 2nd version, 1923. Stained maple + horsehair weave Looking at the menswear shows from Milan and Paris there’s a graphic, linear quality to the clothes, tempered with a softer handle to the fabrics. There is also a latent feeling of “craft werk” about the way noble tweeds, marls, cahmere drape, thick mohairs and wools have been married with the unnatural, technical aspects of weather proof nylons and fly away techno fabrics. Proletariat. Urbane. Graphic. These qualities […]

Categories: men only, Uncategorized • Tags: Bauhaus, Johannes Itten, László Moholy-Nagy, marcel bruer

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Le Smoking

Comme des Femmes: The trouble with men in skirts

January 23, 2010 by Le Fist

Men Behaving Girly: Comme des garcons, Givenchy, Rick Owens [www.wwd.com] Every so often, the menswear shows throw up a multitude of “man skirts”. Nothing new in that. Jean Paul Gaultier’s been hard at it for decades, never mind the Scots with their tartan kilts – a national costume not a quotidian option, I might add. The Japanese invasion in the 80s brought a more funereal take in Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo’s heavy, felted dirndls. Hedi Slimane tried again at […]

Categories: boys boys boys, fashion week • Tags: fashion critique, meswear, skirts

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josef hoffman

Mean Business: Louis Vuitton Autumn-Winter 2010, Paris

January 22, 2010 by Le Fist

Triple delicious. Marc Jacobs and Paul Helbers have raised the bar so bloody high. This is total, absolute luxury. The shows so far haven’t delivered such a precise, no nonsense line up of perfect, manly clothes. If you’ve gots the cash this is really where you should blow it. Inspired by the Wiener Werkstätte movement, formed in Vienna at the turn of the 20th century, the clothes have been drafted with the precision of an architect. However, there’s a certain […]

Categories: louis vuitton, love love love, men only • Tags: louis vuitton, mens fashion week, paris

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change of subject 1

A Change of Subject: A sideways glance at a photo shoot

January 21, 2010 by Le Fist

They say that the camera never lies. Not true. What you see isn’t always what was. Also, what you don’t see can sometimes be as beautiful or interesting. At a lookbook photo shoot for one of my clients last summer I spent a few idle moments taking photographs of the studio space – Spring Studios on Curtain Road, London. The light was perfect – natural, bright and crisp, streaming in through the expansive windows_ http://www.springstudios.co.uk

Categories: muses, photography • Tags: colour studies, fashion, photography

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These New Puritans 2

Dark Matter: These New Puritans, Hidden 2010

January 21, 2010 by Le Fist

- Jack Barnett – - George Barnett – - Thomas Hein – - Sophie Sleigh-Johnson – Fundamental to a good collection is inspiration – pulling together seemingly abstract concepts and images into a coherent process of thought. Recording a great album is no different. On listening to These New Puritans’ new album, entitled “Hidden”, on the 277 bus to meet a friend for dinner last night I found myself smiling. Smiling because I recognised a familiar piece of classical music […]

Categories: love love love, music • Tags: music, these new puritans

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Mauvais Garcon 1

Punctuation! // Le Mauvais Garçon

January 20, 2010 by Le Fist

[salt + pepper - blk - white - gry]

Categories: boys boys boys, fashion, illustration, Uncategorized • Tags: black, colour studies, fashion, illustration, menswear, photography

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coats 1

Heavyweight Champions: Some great coats from Milan

January 20, 2010 by Le Fist

Neil Barrett, Neil Barrett, Burberry The biggest impression I’m getting from Milan is coats. Obvious, perhaps, seeing that its the winter collections and all, but there seems to be some extra love being given in the coat department. Great volumes, nifty details, luxe textures, good buttons, expensif colourways. Just delicious_ Pringle, Jil Sander par Raf Simons, Alexander McQueen Last but not least: Puffa ULTIMO, jil sander images: http://www.GQ.co.uk

Categories: fashion, love love love, men only, menswear • Tags: black, mens fashion week

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(untitled) Maison Martin Margiela

Smells Like A White Spirit: Parfum Maison Martin Margiela, 2010

January 20, 2010 by Le Fist

Qu’est ce que c’est? Là, sur la commode blanche… (untitled): Its all non-scents Maison Martin Margiela [MMM] are about to release a new frah-granse, I hear. (untitled) its called. Apt. I wonder what it’ll smell like? Contender for my Diptyque fetish? Who knows? Actually, I would have been quite excited by this in the past but ever since Marty put down his sketch pad [white], popped his pencil back into the pencil pot [white] and hung up his lab coat […]

Categories: maison martin margiela, non-scent • Tags: maison martin margiela, perfume

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Sensory Pleasures: Gin, tonic, Ivy, Water + Obsession for Men

January 19, 2010 by Le Fist

First Love_ I got my first grown up bottle of perfume, proper perfume, not Lynx body spray, when I turned 14. My parents decided it was time I smelt like a man. My first manly olfactory indulgence was a bottle of Calvin Klein Obsession. This was the early 90s and you couldn’t get much cooler than that. We had a lot of fun together, my Obssession and I. Our gardener liked it and I liked that because I liked our […]

Categories: love love love, perfume • Tags: calvin klein obsession, demeter, diptyque, perfume

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lost art of grooming 1

The Art of Grooming: Francesca Bertolini, 2003

January 19, 2010 by Le Fist

Francesca Bertolini …Sotto il Prossimo 2003 There’s something quite special about going to the barbers. Its a ritual that seldom changes. 30 minutes or so of peace and quiet, of total trust. You build a relationship with your barber. He understands you – exactly how you like your hair cut, your beard trimmed. And you understand him. You know exactly when to tilt your head backward or to the side, when to pull your lips inward so that he’ll have […]

Categories: photography • Tags: grooming, photography

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Zach Condon 1

Modern Muse 1: Zach Condon// Beirut

January 18, 2010 by Le Fist

Mad About the Boy Zach Condon has a band called Beirut. You could quite call Zach a nerd and I’m sure Zach was called all sorts of things prophylactic in high school due to his surname. But we wont go there. Zach’s music is very good. Sort of Eastern Europe Slovenian folk pop. Quite tender. Sometimes tinged with melancholy. Zach plays amongst other things, the ukelele, accordion, glockenspiel, and mandolin but perhaps not the fiddle. I’m sure that he could […]

Categories: boys boys boys, muses, Uncategorized • Tags: Beirut, fashion critique, muse

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1970's Kitchen

When Prada Met Julia: Menswear Autumn-Winter 2010, Milan

January 18, 2010 by Le Fist

Cordon Bluff: Come home to Momma Prada Menswear Autumn-Winter 2010 [www.wwd.com] The opening section of the Prada show felt the strongest. Even though it felt like the label was treading water/ reissuing house classics it somehow came across as fresh and looked cute, a word seldom used when describing menswear. The play on proportions was subtle and it quietly twisted classics. See the collegiate blazers in camel paired with shrunken, almost feminine marl knits. Bookish. There’s an ease about these […]

Categories: menswear, PRADA Harder • Tags: julia child, mens fashion week, prada

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A young man 1

Dorian All In Grey_:- Menswear AW//2010

January 18, 2010 by Le Fist

What better way to usher in the new menswear collections than with a tribute to Oscar Wilde’s  A Picture of Dorian Gray? The novel was reissued Four Corners Books in a magazine format entitled “A Young Man of Extraordinary Personal Beauty”. The cover is in an unusual shade of sky blue but I’ve presented it here in monotone. I treasure it so much that I still keep it in its original cellophane sleeve. The artwork was by Gareth Jones and […]

Categories: oscar wilde, rare books, reading material • Tags: books, colour studies, Four Corners Books, graphic design, oscar wilde, The Picture of Dorian Gray, typography

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