random thought processes of a creative
I really like the tone of red — a weird kind of terracotta — coming through the washed out aqua. It’s quite unexpected but works. The dirty greeny-yellow of the window blind in the second picture makes the mix even more interesting. Its just one of many unusual colour combinations that I came across on my recent trip to the Motherland. Every corner you turned down held a new surprise. Beautiful.
Alessandro Dell’ Aqua N. 21
Yes, him of the waters. It seems a bit nothing, and it kind of is — the slogan tee.
However, I quite like the way it plays with Chanelism. Black on white. N. 05. Etc.
Somehow cool.
I apologize, once again!
No excuses this time. The Lazy Blogger has sunk further into languor’s apathetic embrace. Well, new year, new beginnings, and all that.
It so happens that I’ve been home. Real home, the Motherland, so to speak. I’ll keep the name of this country anonymous – let’s just say that its somewhere in West Africa. It’d been so long since I last went that I got scared of going – a vicious cycle that kept on spiralling out of control. The longer I left it, the more scared I got. How stupid of me. I had the best time EVER. Don’t get me wrong, it was a shock to the system but it was exactly what I needed. There’ll be more on this later but I’ll leave you with a few images till the next time I check in.
I’m not promising anything. It might be a while…!
TTFN. LFN
The circus has rolled in once more, along with it the usual cast of characters – ringmaster, clown and magicians. As with any circus there is always The Good, The Bad and the Damned. OK, I made the last one up but “ugly” is a subjective thing. One man’s Beautiful is another’s Rodarte, ouch!
Anyway, I’ve got some ideas for posts on fashion week. One of them will be what I call The Barbie Syndrome -- female designers objectifying themselves. A bit like the Mugler fetishization of women in the 80s in reverse_
Well, its like tumbleweeds a’ rolling round these parts.
Talk about ghost-writing!
Yes its been a while for sure. A lot has happened in the last few months since I last clickety-clacked my trusty keyboard. Most of it good. Pretty much all of it good. Moving home, new projects and lots of amazing personal developments. But that hasn’t been the only reason I stopped blogging. To be honest, it had become boring. There’s an information overload out there and it can make your head hurt. I’ll hold my hand up as being a cyber-vulture with the best of them, preying on the “deadflesh” of informed/uninformed writing, the speculations, the egoistical self-portraits of sweet-nothings fawning at their own self-fabulousness, stylists who seem to be more interested in self-styling than styling anything else. I could go on. But that’s a narrow-minded stance to take. There is a lot of good out there: good-bloggers, great design, great people. Sometimes you have to take a step back.
Anyway, I hope my mojo comes back. And my preposition foibles. And my typos.
TTFN
LFN
Kiss all the pretty ones goodbye
Give everyone a penny that cry
You can throw all my tranquil’ pills away
Let my blood pressure go on its way
For my autumn’s done come
My autumn’s done come. Done come
Lee Hazlewood, 1966
A friend introduced me to this the other day and I haven’t stopped listening to it. You may have heard of The Weeknd but if you haven’t you probably would have sooner or later.
It was late at night, and we may or may not have had a dirty ciggie but we had most definitely knocked back a few glasses of “dirty” Pimms. Ah, the rites of spring. Anyway this friend of mine fancies himself as a bit of a master of the decks and was teaching me the basics of deejaying when he put this on.
The House of Balloons album has been causing quite a stir on the internet. For starters you can download the entire mixtape for free from The Weeknd’s website. Secondly, it seems to be breathing life into the jaded, tired world of r’n'b. Having said that, r’n'b seems too narrow a categorisation although Rhianna would give her right arm for opening track, “High for This”.
Fronted by vocalist Abel Testfaye, The Weeknd pour everything from fellow Canadian, Drake, to Massive Attack, Burial and R kelly into some sort of twisted sonic food processor to come up with a dark, seductive blend of of slow jams and electro. What really marks them out are their disturbing, drug-infused lyrics. For instance, “High for This” has Testfaye cooing: Hold tight, for this ride/ we don’t need no protection…. open your hand, take a glass, don’t be scared, i’m right here/ even though, you don’t want, trust me girl, you wanna be high for this.
Like I said, dark stuff.
They offer a peek into a nightmarish world of kinky sex, perversion and self-loathing. Not immediately sexy and definitely not one for the kids but Testfaye’s almost angelic lilt is a Trojan horse that you kind of want to let in_
download here>>
There’s been quite a few amazing designer retrospectives as of late: YSL, Vionnet, Yohji Yamamoto, the 30 Years of Japanese design at the Barbican in London, the new Alexander McQueen… And now Madame Grés. Or Alix as she was known at the start of her career.
Its on at the Musée Bourdelle, near the Tour Montparnasse in Paris till July.
I was actually there on Monday with some friends but stupidly forgot that this was Paris and some museums are shut then. Ah, well, you live and learn! It looks amazing from the pictures I’ve seen. Apparently Madame Grés always wanted to be a sculptress hence the poetic display of 80 pieces of her incredibly draped dresses and minimalist sheathes amongst the grecian sculptures at the museum. In my opinion she did achieve her goal, sculpting out of cloth these intricate forms. Like Madeleine Vionnet she was a trailblazer that liberated women from the restrictive corset and she is probably the only couturier of her time you could still wear today and not look like you were wearing “vintage”. Master class. Can’t wait to see it!
Madame Grés:
“La Couture à L’Oeuvre”
Musée Bourdelle
16 rue Antoine Bourdelle
75015 PARIS
image above, Irving Penn, Inventive Paris Clothes 1909-1939 [The Viking Press, 1977]
Circa 1993 there was one album that no fashion show, elegant soirée, discerning music head, chill out lounge from Brighton to Ibiza wouldn’t beg, borrow or steal from — the legendary K&D Sessions by Peter Kruder and Richard Dorfmeister. This double disc “tome” of an album contained remixes of songs by Bone Thugs ‘n” Harmony through to Lamb and it achieved that Holy Grail of music by producing versions that were arguably equal to and that sometimes surpassed the originals. I own two copies, having worn the first one out . They sit next to other 90s gems such as DJ Shadow’s Endtroducing and Aim’s Cold Water Music. The K&D Sessions put paid to the idea that trip-hop/ lounge music/ chill out was nothing but muzak for the chi-chi dinner parties of the middle-aged middle class. This was as refined and absolute as music got. Nearly 20 years on and it still sounds as fresh as it did back then.
Don’t you just love record shops? Disque Records on Chapel Market in Islington, London (sadly closed down like a hundred other indies.) Browsing the racks and coming across something you’ve always wanted but never got round to buying. Or that rare/ out of circulation album you’d been trying to get your stinky paws on. Or just something unexpected that takes your fancy… Last year I was in a similar store in Italy, similarly now closed, browsing the racks, making a selection as was my tradition whenever I was in that neck of the woods. It was then that I came across this_
WHOA!!! If I’d been sitting down I would have fallen off my chair! Knees turned to jelly, mouth dried out, eyelashes flicked overdrive. G-Stone MASTER SERIES No 1: Peter Kruder Private Collection. I’d already mentally reached for my credit card, rushed back to my hotel room and popped this bad boy into my MacBook before even picking up said disc. That unwavering is my trust for the Kruder /Dorfmeister/ Huber ability to deliver first class every time. [Together Richard Dorfmeister and Rupert Huber form TOSCA, another genius sonic partnership.]
The disc promised to be a selection of tracks that Peter Kruder would play you if you were a guest in his home. I mean, how sexy does that sound? This was going to be an esoteric, eccentric melange of sounds. A treat! And indeed it was. From the opening track, Talk Talk’s The Rainbow, to the vocal masterpiece by Rokia Traore that closes the compilation it was a slightly strange but nevertheless engaging experience. There’s that phrase when a designer shows a collection so directional that it “changes your eye”, as The New York Times’ Cathy Horyn is so fond of saying. Well this album “changes your ear”.
Other than being a wonderful collection of songs that defy easy categorisation, it comes beautifully presented in a box. Each track has its accompanying square postcard with a note about why it was chosen and an image shot by Peter Kruder himself. Jammy bastard, he’s also a great photographer as well_
images by Peter Kruder.
NEXT UP_
Kruder’s other half, Richard Dorfmeister, fights back with his own selection of music for the second in the G-Stone Master Series. I’ve already seen the playlist on their website. This is GONNA BE GOOD. Opening track, Vladimir Cosma’s Promenade Sentimentale from the soundtrack to Jean-Jaques Beineix’s 1981 film, Diva, is a Satie-esque riff of dreamy, loopy piano notes. You can read my piece on the film by clicking >> HERE.
The album’s out on the 31st of March and you can download it then on SOUL SEDUCTION or hunt down the disc version. Or both, like I’ll be doing. Absolutely worth every centime, nickel or dime.
Exit 29_
Perfect. White suit. Bianca Jagger fast forward >> 2012. Ice cool.Perfect proportions, perfect casting [Karmen Pedaru (ELITE)].
PERFECT MOMENT.
Image Marcus Tondo/GoRunway/Style.com
There’s that scruffy art school vibe about him. Well, he did study at Goldsmiths in London. He kind of makes that pudding bowl-y haircut work. Not too much hair gel, a little unkempt, a bit overgrown. The crumpled shirts. Nothing particularly unique in the style stakes but its more often than not about attitude rather than just the clothes.
And then there’s that voice. Soulful, growly and so expressive yet balanced with a delicateness that makes you hang on to every word. His self-titled debut album is one of those rare albums that come along once in a while that don’t leave you feeling short-changed at the end of it. James somehow makes high concept and mainstream work so effortlessly. If you haven’t bought or downloaded the album then you should. You wont regret it. It’s a beautiful listen_
A rather beautiful book_
- Hardcover: 102 pages
- Publisher: Hatje Cantz (14 Sep 2005)
I haven’t done a post on music in ages so I thought I’d share some of the albums that are currently working my B&W P5s overtime!
PJ Harvey’s Let England Shake – The new Kate Bush?
Radiohead’s The King of Limbs – Another great moodpiece.
Hiroshi Fujiwara’s In Dub With Luv – His albums are so bloody rare so I pounced on this when I saw it in Colette.
James Blake – Perfect dreamy electro. Bet this makes it to most of those “Album of the Year” lists.
Dave Aju’ s Open Wide – I just can’t stop listening to First Love. Sexy, deep electro house.
Sandra Bernhard’s Excuses for Bad Behavior, Part 1
– Hard to believe but she’s got quite some pipes on her! Her rendition of You Make Me Feel ( Mighty Real) featured in Isaac Mizrahi’s Unzipped. Amazing cover. Guilty Pleasure? ABSOLUTELY.
⟲
The Seduction of Ingmar Bergman by SPARKS. (2009)
Prada used “Garbo Sings” as the soundtrack to their Winter womenswear show. Its weird, dramatic and haunting. Bit of a challenging album to listen to so it suits the Prada aesthetic to a T.
The show season’s nearly over, not without a whiff of scandal, drunken proclamations and talk of ominous place-shiftings at a high level… The clothes almost seem like an afterthought. Anyway, zees eez not zee playhss for shameless gossip.
Its been an odd season. I’m not sure how I feel about most of the shows. A lot of them inspired a feeling of blahhhh, more than anything else. I think to myself, how would that look all in black? Or will the world be a sadder place if so and so collection never existed? Shops need to be filled, I guess.
I’m still on the fence with Celine although I’m usually a big fan of Ms Philo’s work. The obvious bête noire was the woodgrain. Yes, it recalled Rodarte but that wasn’t my problem with the three or so looks. They felt out of place somehow and what woman in her right mind wants to look like a coffee table or worse, Grandma Hickey’s crockery cupboard? Best left in a dowager duchess’ bedsit… Anyway with Celine the clothes are much better appreciated in the flesh. Lots of complex details not that apparent from an image. They’re just bang on the money. Hell, I want to buy them and I’m no lady, no siree…
I really like this outfit, the pink ensemble. I’m a sucker for a good shirt, as you may well know, and a perfectly cut pair of trousers. If I was a girl I’d be lusting after this. Its a very simple look but one that’s harder to pull off than it initially seems. Imagine the frowns of disapproval or envious looks you’d draw if you wore this say to a summer wedding? No chintzy florals. Sort of a latter day page girl, if that makes any sense. SCANDALO!
I like how Ms Philo toys with the idea of masculine and feminine in such an economical and direct way. HEAD ON. And yet with such subtlety. Three shades of pink for a Tom Boy. And a fierce pair of heels. Perfect
New Glamour In Your Life_
I came across these the other day, a series of photographs of Chanel packaging and cosmetic campaigns from the 20s through 50s. With Peter Phillips’ animation of Chanel cosmetics hot off zee press it seems quite timely to go back to the original Design Classics.
More so tan (sic) the clothes the graphic identity of Chanel never seems to date. Drool.
A while back I did a couple of posts that thinly disguised my hatred for the PLAGUE OF PLAID that had infested menswear. OK, that sounds a bit pompous and high-fallutin’. I still stand firm. Well, sort off… I’ve been drawn as of late to the geometrically patterned chemise but I’m leaning towards gingham as opposed to plaid. Thus, I don’t feel such a hypocrite.
Its that slight feeling of spring in the air that gets one thinking about the summer ahead — lovely rumpled shirts, sleeves rolled up past elbow, collar undone in a lopsided fashion. I do give good shirt, I must say. So its rather worrying that I live so close FRENCH TROTTERS on rue Vielle du Temple. Its one of those little local shops that has been garnering a lot of interest in magazines such as Monocle. Cool, lifestyle-y and low-key. A shop for men. No loud music. Something cool and hum-inducing on the sound system. But not too cool. Cute assistants – eye candy a prerequisite to a good shop session; oils up an otherwise reluctant carte bleue. Its pretty much all a guy needs in one space.
They stock brands such as Oliver Spencer, Margaret Howell, ACNE, A.P.C., Universal Works and Visvim. Great menswear staples. Good selection of accessories and shoes. Sweet little nothings like The Hill Side squared-off neckties — these really do perk up a “Look”. And luxe perfume brand Byredo. Smell Bal d’Afrique or Gipsy Water and DIE. So you see why this is so disconcerting. I don’t shop much and when I do I’m quick and precise. Go in for the kill. I never try anything on. I just need to check the lengths of sleeves –I’m over 6ft tall. And the width of shirts and jackets — my fondess for a tipple or two has left me, shall we say, portly, round the abdominal region. Hey ho, I’ll die satisfied, I guess!
image: The Selby
Anyway, back to plaid, sorry, gingham. I’ve always loved chef’s whites. I like all things culinary, really. But CHEFS ARE COOL. The slouchy trews, the aprons, white shirts. Its a utilitarian look that’s soft around the edges. Perfect. And this summer I’m drawn toward pattern. Not stripes. Bit off those. And definitely not Plaid. But gingham… Its simplicity and monochromatic nature make it such a winner. And not too micro, either. 2cm squares are about the right proportion. Present but not in your face. I’m gonna be rocking a few of those come summer. The blue and white Oliver Spencer just bristles with the promise of a great summer to come. What fun we shall have, my dear, what fun.
image: Garance Dore
image: The Sartorialist
CLICK >>
NEW KID ON THE BLOCK
If you’ve been down Hoxton Street [quickly becoming the new Redchurch Street -- more on that later] then you’ve probably seen her. Dark hair, zingy, colour-loaded outfits usually including at least one shade of neon, accessorised with a smile and sometimes her infectious laughter.
Shiba Huizer always makes me smile. We got to know each other whilst I helped my friend set up his shop, The Willow, last year.
Shiba also, always, carries her big camera around with her. At first I thought she was some sort of street style blogger. It turns out that she was in fact completing her final year as a Masters photography student at University of Arts London. Shiba is also Dutch. That could explain her fondness for florals!
Anyway, she just facebooked me about winning the Best in Class Award at her graduation show and the images you see here are proof that Ms Huizer is a name we’ll be hearing more of in the future. A lot more.
These images were shot in the Caribbean and they just blow me away. You could draw comparisons with fellow Dutchwoman Viviane Sassen’s “FLAMBOYA” series but I think that would be selling Ms Huizer short. Similar subject matter, yes, but what I get from Shiba’s work is a distinct sensuality and a wry eye. There’s a sense of campy fun no doubt but her approach to colour, light and the grace of her subjects makes the images warm and just a pleasure to look at. Well done Shiba! Love it.
I’m sure I’ve raised a few looks recently as I snapped away at pavements. For some reason I’m turned on by plastic. Not in a sexual, deviant kind of way! Nothing wrong with that, mind you… Inspiration can come from anywhere but I’m not even sure that I’m inspired by these images. Intrigued may be a better word.
There’s something about the texture and shapes of these discarded bunches of plastic and industrial wrapping that have drawn me as of late. There’s been a lot of synthetic around recently. Balenciaga’s last two collections have really pushed the idea. And let’s not forget the weird Noah’s Ark goes to Shanghai Louis Vuitton summer collection. This is different, somehow. Its more about context and contrast. Organic shapes crafted out of the synthetic. Free-form. Not sure what it all means yet but I’m already joining dots with Guy Bourdin’s photograph of Yves Saint Laurent’s collection in the September 1976 issue of Paris Vogue.
Who know’s where this will lead. Or maybe its a summary of the season to come. Maybe its just plain weird and repulsive. F*ck knows.
Its been a year already. The Willow Shoreditch, an unbelievably beautiful shop in Hoxton, London, owned by one of my closest friends, is a year old today. What I love the most is the attention to detail in everything he does. Nothing is over-worked and everything comes beautifully packaged. Apart from flowers, The Willow does great salad boxes feshly prepped each morning, super-tasty cakes and seriously good coffee. And let’s not forget the one off objects, unusual vases and special collaborations with graphic designers, artists and photographers. Definitely worth checking out.
92 HOXTON STREET, LONDON
Forgot about this one. I took it in a nightclub/ theatre in the Pigalle. It was at a BBB [Black, Blanc, Beur] party. Can’t remember the actual name of the club. Anyway, BBB keeps changing location every week, Its held now at a club off the Champs-Élysées.
Anyhow, had a crazy Vodka-infused night there a few weekends ago. Verdict on new location: Nah. Or maybe I’m just getting too old for this sort of thing.
